TAG Heuer has really gone all-out and embraced the rainbow in recent years. We’ve seen purple-dial Monacos, orange-dial Aquaracers, green-dial Carreras, blacked-out Monacos, and more. And the latest release from the Swiss watchmaker continues the trend. Announced this morning, the latest addition to the Carrera family features a beautiful scarlet shade on the dial. It’s a limited edition of 600 pieces, priced at $6, 750, and it shares a similar stainless-steel case profile with the all-time classic 1960s Carrera ref. 2447; the modernized “glassbox” architecture measures a compact 39mm × 14. 7mm, with an approximate lug-to-lug dimension of 46. 5mm.
The LABEL Heuer Profesión Red Dial movement inside is, of course , the company’s in-house Calibre Heuer 02. It’s no secret around these parts that I’m a big fan. I really believe that it’s just about the ideal configuration if you were to dream up a high-end chronograph movement today that doesn’t break the bank or push the limits too far.
It all starts with a fully integrated architecture which runs in 33 jewels, at a beat rate associated with 28, 800 vph, having an impressive power reserve of up to 80 hours, all stored in a single barrel thanks to a longer-than-usual mainspring. The entire movement construction consists of just 168 components, a remarkably small figure compared to chronograph movements of the past. The use of fewer total parts in the motion is beneficial to the end-user as it typically translates to less wear over time and a more straightforward servicing experience. Altogether, the actual Calibre Heuer 02 steps an impressively compact 31mm in diameter and 6. 9mm in height.
The MARKING Heuer Trayectoria Red Switch movement also enables a more traditional three-six-nine sub-dial layout (in line with the aesthetics regarding vintage Heuer carrera chronographs), rather than the off-kilter six-nine-twelve orientation seen in TAG Heuer’s previous-gen La mecanique Heuer 01. The movement’s functionality is rounded out by unidirectional winding, Kif shock absorption, a vertical clutch, and hacking seconds ability. One detail I particularly appreciate is the use of the red polymer cap within the column wheel. It’s used consistently around the Calibre Heuer gran carrera 02, but it works especially well using the new Competicion “Red. ”
So , why red? Heuer enthusiasts might recall the particular brick-red dial found on the 1970s Silverstone Chronograph ref. 110. 313R, but TAG Heuer carrera doesn’t confirm that as the new model’s direct inspiration outright (they do mention it in passing), instead highlighting the color as a Heuer/TAG Heuer gran carrera signature over the years, featured in the TAG Heuer logo since 1985. Of course , red was found in typically the tachymeter scale of Heuer carrera chronographs as early as the late 1950s manual-wind Auto-Graph. Watches introduced later, such as the Carrera, Regatta, Monza, Monaco, and Bundeswehr, would almost all end up making strategic use of the color over time, as well.
Ipersonally find this a super easy watch to appreciate. The 39mm, polished-steel “glassbox” case is always a winner (absolutely love those pump pushers! ), the Trascendencia Heuer 02 (as we’ve already covered) is a great inclusion, and the switch looks as downright juicy as an apple, from INDICATE Heuer’s supplied imagery. There’s always the chance a call won’t live up to its initial photos, which I’m hoping isn’t the case here.
There are a number of subtle details I particularly appreciate on the face, as well. The original Heuer logo (sans TAG) will always be any welcome presence, and the light azurage decoration on the trio of sub-dials brings a nice touch involving texture towards the visual playing field. The actual applied and polished rectangular stick-style hour markers sit up nice and tall and make their presence known, increasing legibility in the process. I’m not sure if the use of tan, vintage-tone Super-LumiNova would have been my first choice, but it might also have simply been the most attractive option. It’s difficult to imagine some sort of sober white shade connected with Super-LumiNova matching the warm red watch dial tone. C’est la vie.
It’s already been a little over a year since I last had the opportunity to strap one of these smaller “glassbox”-style Circuito releases on my wrist, however I remember POINT Heuer Trayecto Red Call like it had been yesterday. This case design fits my wrist rather well; although the thickness, just under 15mm, can come across as a tad intimidating, quite a bit of that height is through the tall vintage-inspired sapphire crystal that earned the “glassbox” nickname long ago. The quintessential Carrera faceted lugs additionally help in that will regard. I’d reckon that if you’ve found an original vintage Heuer Itinerario to fit your hand comfortably, then the 21st-century version only feels ever-so-slightly larger. versace watch copy
Although the first Heuer in the watch-shopping list has always been a vintage 1970s Kentucky Chronograph having a blue dial, if I was going to buy a current-generation TAG Heuer gran carrera chronograph, We can’t imagine it would be anything other than one of these limited-edition 39mm Carreras. And I think this is just about the best-looking example (outside the most recent HODINKEE collaboration) to be released since the unexpected pseudo-revival of the Montreal Chronograph in the summer of 2020.